I liken the texture of this dish to how many of us with Italian cultural influence or heritage likely reheat leftover pasta. Growing up, and still to this day, we reheat pasta in a bit of oil or butter until the bottom crisps up and caramelizes. Spaghetti all’Assassina is reminiscent of that texture, with a little extra something-something.
The Assassin’s Spaghetti: A Spicy Dish from Bari
In the coastal town of Bari, Italy, lies a restaurant called Al Sorso Preferito known for its fiery dish: Spaghetti all’Assassina or Assassin’s Spaghetti. The name alone intrigues food lovers and adventurers alike, sparking curiosity and allure. But how did this fiery concoction earn such a dramatic title?
The Origin
In the early 1960s, a spaghetti creation emerged. On one particular evening, the chefs at Al Sorso Preferito left a pan-cooked spaghetti to cook a bit too long, resulting in a slight burn on the bottom. While they usually would have discarded such a batch, the chefs decided to taste it instead. To their surprise, they found they quite enjoyed the crunchy, charred bits. This unexpected twist captured the attention of their customers too, who encouraged the chefs to amplify the dish: more crunch, increase the pepper, a touch more char.
The name “spaghetti all’assassina” was actually the dish’s original name for its inherent spiciness before the kitchen mishap which added to its character. The dish became a mainstay and it eventually caught on outside the borders.
The Cooking Method
This spaghetti is meant to be prepared with great intention, despite how it came to be. The pasta is simmered in a mix of rich tomato passata and hearty broth. The cooking technique resembles that of a risotto: a slow absorption of liquid until the pasta becomes tender yet al dente.
However, the most important part is to leave the pasta alone long enough for the caramelization to occur. This is where the magic happens—the caramelization gives the dish its distinct flavor, enhancing the taste while providing a contrast to the creaminess of the sauce. Allowing the pasta to go a bit further to develop a slight char that enhances the overall texture. Each charred bite is a nuance of smokiness that makes the dish not just a meal, but a story.
To Parboil or Not
According to an article in Saveur, Chef Pietro, one of the original chefs of this pasta insists on briefly boiling the pasta first because he says otherwise it burns too much in the pan. Although it seems this has become a matter of contention and preference, as others prefer an increased char that only comes from cooking raw spaghetti in the passata mix. I choose to cook it raw, but give it a go and see for yourself.
Once the dish is prepared, avoid leaving it in the pan or serving it in a single large bowl, as the steam will likely compromise the crispiness. Dish it out individually and enjoy it immediately.
Share with Me on Instagram
If you give this dish a go, don’t forget to share it with me on Instagram, I’d love to see! Just make sure to tag me @chasingtheseasons so I don’t miss it!
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Equipment
- 12-15 inch fry pan with deep sides
Ingredients
- 32 oz chicken broth
- 4 tbsp olive oil
- 2-3 tsp red pepper flakes, 3 tsp for more heat! substitute 5–10 jarred whole pepperoncini peppers, finely chopped
- 1 tbsp tomato paste
- fine sea salt
- 28 oz passata or tomato puree
- 1 lb spaghetti
- extra virgin olive oil, for drizzling at the end
Instructions
- Add the broth to a medium saucepan. Bring to a full simmer. Keep on low heat to keep warm.
- Heat a large 12-15 inch fry pan on medium high heat (choose one that will comfortably fit the whole length of the spaghetti). Add the oil and toast the pepper flakes until they begin to release their color, 1-2 minutes. Add the paste and gently mix.
- Add the passata and a ladle full of hot broth to the pan. Mix and season with salt, to taste. Bring the contents to a simmer. Add the uncooked spaghetti and coat well by spooning the mixture up and over the spaghetti. Leave the spaghetti to sit undisturbed until the liquid is mostly absorbed. It will be tight at first. Separate the spaghetti a little bit here and there to let the liquid distribute as evenly as possible, further coating the strands. Feel free to give the pasta a little push to touch the bottom of the pan.
- As the liquid absorbs, add broth, a ladle or two at a time. It's important to minimally move the spaghetti – the idea is to allow it to caramelize by maintaining adequate contact with the hot pan. Feel free to give it a check every few minutes without disturbing too much.
- Once most of the broth has been used, check the bottom of the spaghetti – there should be crisped and charred bits. Using tongs with rubber tips, lightly lift and fold so the lighter sections are at the bottom and the crispy bits at the top. Total time for the spaghetti to cook should be about 20-30 minutes.
- The final consistency will be firm and somewhat dry, not saucy. Drizzle with extra virgin olive oil and serve in individual portions right away. Leaving the spaghetti in a hot pan after serving might soften some of the crispy bits, so plan to serve right away.
Notes
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